Strength training for performance
Based on The science of climbing training: An evidence-based guide to improving your climbing performance by Sergio Consuegra.
Definitions
Definitions
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RE (Repetition effort): number of repetitions performed relative to the maximum possible. For example, an RE of 8 (out of 12) means 8 repetitions were completed when 12 could have been done, leaving 4 reps in reserve.
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%1RM (Percentage of one repetition maximum): percentage of the maximum weight a person can lift once with proper technique.
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Velocity loss: Reduction in execution speed during a set, expressed as a percentage.
Repetitions
These guidelines help adjust your training load according to whether you are a beginner, intermediate, or advanced climber.
| Level | Velocity loss | RE | %1RM |
|---|---|---|---|
| Beginners | 10–20% | 8(20) to 6(12) | 55–70% |
| Intermediates | 10–25% | 8(18) to 4–5(7–8) | 57–80% |
| Advanced | 15–25% | 8(16) to 1–3(2–4) | 60–90% |
Exercises
| Upper body | Core | Lower body |
|---|---|---|
| Bench press | Plank | Barbell squat |
| Push ups plus | Pallof press | Deadlift |
| Dips plus | Toes to bar | Romanian deadlift |
| Military press | Knees to elbows | Nordic curl |
| Pull-ups | Ab-wheel | Razor curl |
| Barbell row | Front lever | Bulgarian split squat |
| Face pull | Farmer walk | Step up |
| Glute bridge | Pistol squat | |
| Superman all fours | Calf raises |
Equipment needed
- Pull-up bar
- Barbell with weight plates
- Flat bench (or a sturdy surface)
- Resistance bands (for face pulls, pallof press)
- Ab wheel or sliders (for core work)
Nice to have
- Dumbbells or kettlebells (for farmer walks, split squats, step-ups)
- Box or step (for step-ups, bulgarian split squats)
- Yoga mat (for floor exercises)